ShooFiMaFi.com (shoo fi ma fi) // Trip To Lebanon

The first instant you realize that you’re actually traveling to Lebanon isn’t when you buy the ticket, nor is it when you board the initial plane with destination Heathrow Airport (or any other connection). The first time you get a real taste of Lebanon isn’t when you reach the Beirut International Airport, nor is it when you first step on Lebanese ground.

The first time you actually comprehend that you’re really going to Lebanon, is at the moment you lay-eyes on the Middle East Airlines (MEA) booth in Heathrow. You stand in line, but what line are you talking about! Many Lebanese act civilized when living in other countries, but once they reach the MEA booth, it’s like they’re in Lebanon already.

The line gets bypassed, and it is there that you take your first sip of “zabbitelna yeha”, a Lebanese mentality that has survived for generations. It’s like this guy in front of me is willing to waste everybody’s time and argue for ages, just to ensure that he gets his family of 4 seated together, instead of 2 at a time, although he never made any seat reservations in advance.

Once the booth experience is completed, you locate the gate. There, everyone is asked to board the plane, and as it is the custom at all airports, passengers requiring assistance and those with children are to board first, then the rare seat numbers,… etc. But whom are you kidding! Everyone went at the same time, to the dismay of the British Airport staff.

Now you’re on board the youngest fleet in the world. The MEA planes are spacious, clean, new and very high-tech. Once you board the plane, all the other passengers become your friends, neighbors, and someone you know. People talk freely to one another; they help each other with luggage, and initiate conversations left and right.

The MEA hostesses are very friendly. They’re very professional and well-mannered. You might be surprised as to how friendly they are, as they might joke around and talk to you as the guy/girl next door. But that’s a nice thing, they’re Lebanese too, and the connection is made right there and then,… you’re one of us.

The food on the MEA plane is amazing, by airplane standards that is. It’s the best airplane meal I’ve ever had, and I do travel allot. The video screen onboard the plane is complemented by individual monitors for every passenger, and a remote control to switch between the 11 channels of programming. From movies to music, cartoon, news and regular TV programming, you’re well entertained for the duration of the flight.

Beirut’s International Airport is all that you expect in a newly built airport. It’s well managed, well organized and very clean. To my enjoyment, it had no portraits, if you know what I mean, and there was no “visible” foreign presence!

The airport was a milestone in my trip, because it showcased a beautiful image of Lebanon. It is there that you clearly see the many Lebanese faces, those who have returned, even if just for a vacation.

Once you exit the airport, you recognize even more how much Lebanon has changed. The new streets, the new highways, and all the new buildings in your path are visible reminders that Beirut had a prominent face-lift. It’s a positive “different”, a “good” kind of change, because Beirut’s beauty was never meant to be tarnished by war, nor were the buildings meant to be accessorized with bullet holes.

When I came back to Canada, I sent few pictures to some of my friends, and they all liked them, wishing they were vacationing in Lebanon this summer. One of them is an older lady who was a student at AUB before the war, and here's what she had to say:

"Thanks so much for sharing these pictures. Beautiful! Beautiful! I'm impressed by the wonderful lighting and grandeur of the downtown buildings. The photo that brought on a wave of nostalgia for me was the afternoon traffic scene, with the palm trees and the buildings blanketing the hills in the background. I have many good memories of Beirut - thanks for triggering some for me."

It’s true, the downtown core is a symphony of light and glamour. No wonder many people visit the downtown every night and stay until after midnight. Just being there gives you a feeling of belonging. The surroundings define the word “Beirut” and would certainly give you many new memories.

Lebanon differs from other countries, or at least the places I’ve been to, by the sense of being alive. There’s an unexplainable love for life, inhibiting its people and every matter that exists on its land.

The Lebanese enjoy life, and they are the masters of socializing and having fun. That’s what those of us living abroad miss the most. In Lebanon, your neighbor is like a member of your family; you go into a store and immediately you’re chatty; then you walk to any take-out store, and you’re often greeted with enthusiasm. Yes, it’s that hot-blooded characteristic that makes the Lebanese alive, full of energy and passion,… but unfortunately, that’s the same characteristic that makes us impulsive and confrontational.

Starbucks in Beirut is packed every night. All the places where you can go out and socialize, especially the downtown core, are crowded with people on a nightly basis. Every night during the week feels like Friday or Saturday night. The stores remain open, the “nargileh” (hookah) is lit, and the food / drinks of choice are served well into the late hours of the evening.

It’s surprising how large this small country is. Many call Lebanon tiny, but if you at least take one trip to the liberated areas of South Lebanon, you’d see beautiful mountains / valleys / hills and all sorts of green spaces, as far as the eye can see.

In the North, there’s the majesty of the Cedars, and the glory of the Beqa’a valley can’t be described. Then there are the coastal cities, Sidon, Tyr, and Jbeil to name a few. They are jewels on the Mediterranean, comparable only to the beauty of Tripoli and Jounieh. I would’ve named every Lebanese town and city in this article, but the list is endless as there are majestic villages that are spread all over, but maybe rarely heard of.

Lebanon is its people. Some might argue that this is a bad thing, but also it’s an amazing thing. The Lebanese are unique in their entrepreneurial spirit and act of living. Again, you might argue that there are the lazy ones and the not so respectful ones, but take a trip to one of Lebanon’s villages and you’ll be greeted with invitations to drink coffee, from those you don’t even know. You need help, and a thousand and one hands reach out,… that’s what the true Lebanese are all about. Curious, passionate and smart, this describes a hereditary trait that summons all the Lebanese.

Value of money: exchange a $100 USD and it’s gone. Everything is expensive in Lebanon, except groceries, but if you’re there as a tourist, bring your life savings if you intend on having fun.
Smoke in store: it’s still a smoking population, so don’t be surprised if you go into a store and find people smoking. Be aware however, many spots are smoke free, and you’re expected to respect that.
Traffic lights: they are the accessory of the new streets of Beirut, but they’re seldom recognized.
MacDonalds’ delivery: this is something I couldn’t comprehend. In Lebanon there’s so much competition over fast food services, that even McDonalds offers delivery.
Banner ads: these are the curse of Lebanese highways, positioned all over and all around. They’re somewhat annoying, and they clutter the highways and streets, but then again they do offer a certain atmosphere, which I’m not sure if I hate or not.
Pictures of leaders: all over the country, you can tell which religious group populates what are by the pictures of leaders all around you. They are often complemented by the flags of the political parties, and the so apparent logos. I find that to be ignorant and only serving to further divide the nation. Politics should be like religion, practiced at home, and not used to colour a certain street, alley, town, village or city.

My vacation lasted 3 weeks, after which I had mixed feelings. I was torn between wanting to stay in Lebanon, because it’s the only place on earth that I feel that I do belong, and wanting to leave, because I couldn’t take much more of the retarded mentalities and obvious irregularities.

Until the next visit, I'll continue to be hopeful that things will change for the best, and that I (as many of you) would be able to return to Lebanon for good.